Veteran La Chef Govind Armstong Finds Mental Wellbeing In Family And Community

Chef Govind Armstrong. | Tiffany Rose

After working with some of LA’s most notable chefs and striking out on his own, Armstrong finds balance from his colleagues, staff, and family

Working in restaurants can be a tough endeavor: Lower pay, physical and mental exertion, and long hours are the norm. Studies have found that tipped workers are at greater risk of depression, insomnia, and stress and that the restaurant industry ranks high for drug use and heavy alcohol consumption. These factors, compounded by ongoing economic pressures to turn a profit as well as the rarity of health insurance, paid time off, and sick leave, have led to food service being cited as one of the worst industries for mental health. Over 1 million workers have left the industry since the pandemic began, with over 60 percent of those remaining saying they are leaving in due time.

In this special edition of Service Check, Eater examines the sustainability of Los Angeles restaurants through the lens of hospitality workers.

Chef Govind Armstrong’s career began in Los Angeles at the age of 13. His mother used to drive him from their San Fernando Valley home and right to Wolfgang Puck’s original Spago on Sunset Boulevard for an internship that propelled him to work alongside some of LA’s best chefs throughout the years, including Nancy Silverton and Mark Peele at Campanile, Patina in Hollywood with Joachim Splichal, and at City with Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger.

After a long career, including at Table 8, Willie Jean, and the recently closed Post & Beam, Armstrong became the Lobster’s executive chef in 2017, after opening. On most days, the married father of three children leads a team of 12 cooks and chefs at the Lobster, which sports one of Southern California’s most iconic views overlooking the Pacific Ocean and Santa Monica Pier.

Through the decades, Armstrong has witnessed and experienced restaurants from both the employee and owner sides. Eater sat down with Armstrong on one of the busiest weeks of the year as the Lobster prepared for Valentine’s Day. On that day, he was home nursing sick twins while discussing work challenges, self-care, balancing time off, family, and whether potential Canadian tariffs would impact his restaurant’s most vital import: lobster.

How do you find a balance between your interests, family life, and work?

Govind Armstrong: Every chef’s life is an almost daily struggle, no matter the intentions. Being with someone who understands [in this case, Govind’s wife Julia) is huge. Being with a family that gets what you do is great, but I still want to figure out a better way to divide my time. My mom worked her butt off, but we still had dinner at the table seven nights a week. In the chef world, it’s a fight to maintain a static schedule. I’m supposed to have weekends off, but sometimes show up on a Saturday or Sunday. Sometimes, they’ll come to the restaurant with me while I finish work, and then we’ll do something fun afterward.

How do you feel about the rigors of fine dining?

I’ve been doing this for a long time, so it’s not a sprint — it’s more of an endurance game. Every chef understands that no matter the goal, there will still be a million things that work against you. I am thankful to have a great team everywhere I’ve worked where I can delegate. Growing up in this business, I did not want to become the “yelling, screaming, banging, throwing stuff around” kind of chef. Even in my position, I’m not afraid to ask for help. But you see some chefs destroyed in this line of work. I try to find my zone, stay there, and be consistent.

What would you identify as a significant obstacle to change in the industry that would make working within it feel more sustainable?

It’s so difficult right now. Most restaurants are still recovering from the COVID-19 pandemic. I always try to be positive and plan for the best. But deep down, I also plan for the worst. The fires were devastating. We could see the Palisades Fire glowing at night from the Lobster, and the smoke was billowing out of the Palisades. Look at how the fires slowed down the business at restaurants everywhere. Add these to the current world climate, and running a restaurant is more challenging. We’ve had to rethink how to make the Lobster profitable and sustainable. But it’s a hundred times more difficult now. Unfortunately, we’ve had to cut back on staff like everybody else.

I’m concerned with tariffs because we bring a fair amount of Canadian products like lobster. What’s that going to look like if [President Trump’s proposed tariffs against Canada] go through?

What are the ways you find rest and recharge?

I will drop what I’m doing to hang out with my kids. Or do gardening, which can still be like work! We just installed another raised bed at home and that’s the most therapeutic and fun. It definitely brings me joy, and it reaps benefits.

What are the things you find most fulfilling in your work?

Making people happy, meeting new people, making things work and taste good, working as a team, discovering new combinations, or discovering a new product, wine, or spirit.

In restaurants, what do good days look like, and what do hard days look like?

Good days are when all my products arrive on time. Or when I collaborate on a new dish with my staff while enjoying the process with great feedback, conversation, input, and good execution.

It’s hard when I have a mile-long list and everything is going wrong. Like vendors sending the wrong product. Or someone calls in sick. But things could be so much worse. I still love this game and solving problems.

Have you considered pursuing a different field?

I don’t want to do anything else. I enjoy everything that I’m doing.

Tell me about support systems that you have in place, whether it’s family, friends, colleagues, or care providers.

Julia gets it. She understands me, and some of the sacrifices that need to be made. My mom has always been the biggest supporter. My coworkers have always been positive. I have a lot of mentors whether it’s — Wolfgang, Brad Johnson, Susan Feniger, or Mary Sue Milliken — I can just pick up the phone.

What are you hopeful about for the future?

I am hopeful that our economy will improve. I hope people start going out to celebrate more. I’m hoping all the tariffs don’t affect my cost of goods where we have to put more costs on our guests. I’m hopeful that our government will do the right thing. Most of all, I hope that our staff is safe, healthy, and happy.