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Pembrokeshire’s Wild North By Train, Bus And Bike

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Overshadowed by St Davids and Tenby, the Welsh seaside town of Fishguard makes a great off-season base for coastal and country exploration

In Welsh mythology, Llŷr is the god of the sea. In his latest incarnation – a shimmering five-metre seahorse, keeping watch from Fishguard’s Marine Walk – he’s king of the Pembrokeshire coast.

“I’m calling him Llŷr before anyone else names him,” local artist Gideon Peterson said as we gazed at his magnificent stainless steel creation, perhaps fearing a Seahorsey McSeahorseface situation. “I see him as a water dragon, protecting seafarers. He’ll be visible from the ferry, and will reflect whatever the sky is doing – he’ll catch all kinds of light.”

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